Agava
381 Pine Tree Road
Ithaca NY 14850
607-319-4366

The newest restaurant in Ithaca comes to us courtesy of a team-up between executive chef Andre Jacquet (formerly of the renowned Buddakan , Emeril’s, and House of Blues) and owner Gregar Brous (locally famous for his ownership of Collegtown Bagels and Ithaca Bakery). Located in East Hill, Agava is tucked away on Pine Tree Road at the historical site of a large train depot (East Ithaca). The out-of-the-way locale hasn’t been a detriment as of yet, as Agava has been at or close to full capacity since their grand opening just around 2 months ago.

We decided to try brunch on a recent weekend. We arrived around noon and were seated immediately. The restaurant was only half filled by the time we got there, but the seats quickly filled within the hour. The restaurant is split-leveled, with the upper level as the bar. The first thing we noticed was how big the restaurant looked for such a small space. In the corner, one can enjoy the sweet smell of pizza baking in their fire oven. All the seats and booths were wooden, matching the southwestern style of the decor.

Starting our brunch off the proper way, I ordered the Bloody Mary that was packed with fresh cracked pepper and sweet tomato juice. This was my first Bloody Mary (ever!), but it probably will NOT be my last. The sweetness of the tomatoes mixed with the salt and pepper mixture of the drink made this drink enjoyable. Siddharth isn’t a huge fan of raw tomatoes, but he was more than willing to make an exception for this drink – that’s how good it was.

Our drinks were accompanied by a basket of cornbread and a biscuit. Unfortunately neither was fresh or even warm out of the oven. The breads were served with house-whipped butter and fresh raspberry preserves that were more tart than sweet – totally different than what you’d get from a jar (we both found this pleasant)!

On the list of starters, the quinoa fritters caught our attention. Quinoa is a grain that has recently come into style for being healthier as compared to rice or pasta, but in this menu item it was breaded and fried and served with cotija cheese (a salty, crumbly Mexican cheese somewhat similar in taste to feta), a tomato sauce, and housemade mayo or aioli.

For the actual brunch, Siddharth ordered the Chupacabra flatbread, which was served with bacon, a “charred” tomato sauce, and smoked garlic.

I opted for the benedictos – a twist on eggs benedict that incorporated local ham and an infusion of charred tomato into the hollandaise sauce. It came with a side of home fries.

After our orders, we were very full, so there was no room for dessert! We did enjoy the meal overall, and we were pleased that a restaurant with a Southwestern approach has come to Ithaca.

Taste:

Tricia: 7/10 (good)

For my main dish, the home fries were undersalted, but both the hollandaise and poached egg were cooked well. While hollandaise is typically creamier and sweeter, the charred tomato add an interesting tang to the dish. Certainly a unique flavor. The quinoa fritters were also good, but again could have been lifted with a bit more salt. The bloody Mary was outstanding, and unfortunately it had the most seasoning of all the food.

Siddharth: 6/10 (above average)

The flatbread was excellent. The smoke garlic had a very distinctive taste that melded very well with the bacon. The fire oven produced a great crust as well. However, underseasoning was a problem in 2 dishes: the quinoa fritters and Tricia’s home fries. Lack of salt is a criminal offense in a professional kitchen, and this is why the 6. Also, while I liked the concept of the fritters, I was a bit disappointed that there was so little cotija cheese. Lastly, while the fresh berry preserves were great, it was very unfortunate that the cornbread and biscuits we got were ice cold.

Selection:

Tricia: 8/10 (great)

Agava offered a lot of traditional brunch dishes  but also provided interesting flavors of flatbreads and Southwestern-inspired sandwiches like slow-roasted pork with habenero mustard and pickled jalapenos.Looking at their lunch/dinner menus, there are other interesting choices like beer and chile-braised Vietnamese beef short rib or citrus-brined local chicken. Great offerings for Ithaca.

Siddharth: 8/10

Very good selection at Agava. While I question their execution in some ways, there is no doubt that the menu is designed well. I’m not a huge fan of farm-to-table for its own sake, but when thought out and planned like at Agava, I think it is a great way to go. The collaborations with local suppliers are all meaningful and played a key role in the outstanding makeup of the menu.

Service:

Tricia: 5/10 (fair)

Maybe I’m being harsh harsh here, but I figured I would be honest. The restaurant was definitely understaffed. Occassionally, we would see the manager helping out in serving and talking to the customers. We ordered our drinks quite early, but didn’t see them until after our appetizers arrived. We weren’t sure if our waitress forgot them or that the bar was too busy to take our order. Additionally, our waitress made rare appearances to ask how things were which is an obvious sign that she was busy with other things. The table next to us asked for a spoon to eat their meal with, but ended up having to talk to the manager after waiting at least 15 minutes and letting his breakfast (oatmeal) get cold. Overall, the waitstaff and hostess looked inexperienced, but hopefully they will get the hang of it after several more weeks.

Siddharth: 6/10 (above average)

The waitstaff at Agava was friendly, but the quality of service didn’t match the ambiance or menu selection. While Agava looks like it should be a trendy, upscale sort of a place, the waitresses were slow and not especially knowledgeable about the menu. I think it will take some time for Agava to iron out these kinks. In the meantime, I do think it’s worth giving them a chance, as they are certainly well-meaning. I really do feel that they will improve over time as the waitstaff becomes more experience.

Price: $$ (average)